Exploring Harishchandra gad

I have been trekking the Sahyadris for a while now. The one trek on my trek-to-do list was Harishchandra gad. It was a dream trek for me.

For a long time, I was planning for this trek but due to some or the other reason was never able to make it. Opportunity came knocking in when one of my friends invited me for this trek that was being organized by the trek group (Trekshitiz) he is part of and I immediately said yes. Harishchandra gad was going to be my first night trek.

You need 2 days to trek this fort. It is a fort in the Ahmednagar region and its origin traces back to the 6^th century. The caves on the top of the hill are believed to be carved in the 11 century.

We started our journey from Dombivli via bus organized by Trekshitiz on a Friday at 11.30 pm and reached the village Khireshwar via khubi phata around 2.30 at night. Khubi phata is a junction just after the end of malshej ghat. From khireshwar we walked to the base of the hill.

We started the ascend with the light from the torch we were carrying and with some help from the moonlight. The route is through a dense forest and we were advised to stay close enough. On the way there were conkerberry plants, colloquially known as karvanda. Some of these trees were fully covered with fire flies and what a sight it was to see the whole tree lit up. Initially, it was a bit difficult to walk only under the light from the torch but gradually your vision gets adjusted to the darkness.

The first landmark is the ‘Tolar Khind’. Tolar khind is also known as ‘Vyaghra Shilpa’ as there is a stone with a tiger symbol on it. Just after the Tolar khind there is a rock patch. There are railings along the rock and hence it becomes easier to climb the path, though couple of areas are exposed. When we reached this patch the sun had risen and the early morning rays were lighting up the valley.

From here there is a long trail where you ascend and descend few hillocks. The next landmark is the Balle killa. Balle killa is the name given to the place where the caretaker of the fort used to reside.

From here it takes roughly 2 hours to reach the Harishchandra temple. There are caves here at the base of Taramati peak. The largest of the caves is called Ganesh Guha as it has a huge idol of lord Ganesha in it. This was going to be our base camp for 2 days. We took some rest for sometime as we had trekked for nearly 5 hrs through the night. After a quick nap, we explored the surrounding area.

Ganesh Guha

Inside Ganesh Guha

Harishchandreshwar Temple, Kedareshwar cave, Saptatirtha pushkarni and konkan kada are spots to visit. All of these was explored on the same day. (Saturday)

The temple of Harishchandreshwar depicts carvings from the 6^th century. The whole of the fort is a protected monument under Archaeological Survey of India (tough it doesn’t look like one). There is a cistern inside the temple from where we got our drinking water.

Harishchandreshwar Temple

Inside the temple

Inside the temple

Just close to the temple is the Kedareshwar cave. This cave has a big shivling in the centre and is covered with water. I couldnot resist and entered the water. The water was ice cold and I literally lost my breathe when I first dived in. But it was fun and refreshing to take a swim. Surrounding the shivling there are 4 pillars. They are said to be each representing the four yugas of life; 'Satya Yuga', 'Tretha Yuga', 'Dwapara Yuga' and 'Kali Yuga'. It is believed that with the each passing Yuga, one pillar gets broken. Hence, there is only one pillar representing Kali Yuga intact now. It is simply amazing and one has to see it to believe.

Kedareshwar cave

Another fascinating spot near the temple is the Saptatirtha Pushkarni. On its bank you will find the temple like constructions. The water here is not potable tough.

The most interesting and famous spot on this fort is the ‘Konkan Kada’. It is a half an hour walk from the cave. The view from this cliff is breath taking. You can hear the roaring sound of the wind. It was amazing standing on the cliff and looking at the valley below. The whole scene is picture perfect and it makes you admire the beauty of Mother Nature. Things like this make me realize that you are really missing a lot of things by not witnessing and acknowledging nature’s grandeur. At that particular moment when you are at the top of the mountain and cool breeze is touching you, and you see the orange tinted sky and a deep valley at one end and a majestic cliff like Konkan Kada at the other end, you go in trance. Atleast I was in one. There is no other thought that comes to you apart from the mysticism you are surrounded by. Perhaps this is what they say is the ultimate realisation of ones existence, the feeling of oneness. This is meditation.

 

Konkan Kada also offers another picturesque phenomenon called as ‘Brocken Spectrum’ that is an optical illusion caused when the sun is behind the observer’s back and there is mist/fog in the valley. The result is a magnified image of the observer inside a round rainbow. Very few people get the opportunity to witness this. Unfortunately we couldn’t.

Konkan Kada

 

Konkan Kada

Sunset at Konkan Kada

We were back at the caves after seeing the sunset at the konkan kada. Our guide had arranged the dinner for us. Food was served hot and at particular moment we could not have asked anything more from life. Sleeping in the caves at night was a wonderful experience. Overall we all had a sound sleep.

 

The next day, Sunday, was kept for visiting Taramati peak. Being the top most point, it gives you a hawk eye view of the entire surrounding area.

 

We started our descend on Sunday after having lunch prepared by our guide. A simple meal of ‘pitla bhakri’ seemed nothing less than a delicacy. With stomach full and water bottles filled we bid adieu to the caves.

I generally like to descend fast and was part of the team leading the descend. I had filled two 1 litre water bottles but had kept one bottle with my friend and he volunteered to be at the last team descending.  So eventually I only had 1 litre water and had to ration it.   

When I came to the rock patch and the forest patch, I was really wondering how we managed to cover it during the night time.

 

Well, I started to descend at 1 pm and reached the base village of Khireshwar by 4 pm with a sip of water still to spare.

 

This trek is one of my most memorable treks and I could not have asked for more. Though it did not rain, the weather was pleasant. I think it would be more difficult yet fun to trek this mountain during rainy season.

 

Harishchandra gad is a must do trek. Exploration of Sahyadris is incomplete without trekking Harishchandra gad.